ChockrickBear Gaming

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Assetto Corsa Car Setup Guide

ChockrickBearApr 18, 2020 2:55pm EDT
[t]Playing with the Pagani Zonda R[/t]
[b]Update 9/04:[/b] After some more tweaking and practice, I managed to get 2:02 on Silverstone GP, and [l=]you can try out my setup here[/l]. While the Zonda R is not as responsive as other cars due to its high, non-adjustable ride height and travel, it can still turn quite well as long as you develop the muscle memory to smoothly commit to turns, nail the apexes, and steer out before the car develops the tendency to keep turning due to the laggy suspension. You need a bit of finesse to keep the car balanced, but once you do, it performs quite well. Also, disregard the outdated advice I made here because trying to mitigate the long suspension recovery will worsen the car's turning.

What I really like about this car is the sound. It is like multiple systems powering up as you step on the gas with the combination of the low rumble, the increasing whistle, and the loud scream. The cockpit is also quite stylish, looking simultaneously futuristic and retro.

After some fiddling around, I was able to shave my Silverstone GP lap time to 2:05. As I mentioned in the article, the car is not as tunable as others. The ride height and travel cannot be adjusted, and they are somewhat tall, so if you push this car too hard, the dampers take longer than necessary to recover, causing the car to want to keep turning. Stiffening the damper bump, softening the rebound, and stiffening the springs relative to my recommended settings can help with recovery. However, the differential cannot be adjusted for looser turning, so the car feels slow and tight to turn in, only made worse with stiffer suspension settings. The springs do not need to be stiffer than 146 N/mm for fast direction changes, which is the second lowest setting for the front.
ChockrickBearMay 31, 2020 12:31pm EDT
[t]Porsche 911 GT1-98[/t]
[b]Update 9/24:[/b] I shaved my Silverstone GP time to 2:01.6. This time, I used a softer front spring, increased the front ride height, and stiffened the fast bumps, which helped improve turning. My setup has been updated.
[b]Update 8/31:[/b] I was able to shave my Silverstone GP time to 2:02.3 by stiffening the front spring and softening the front anti-roll bar, which gave tighter handling without much of an impact on turn radius. My setup has been updated to reflect this. One thing to note about the GT1 is that it has short damper travel by default, which is why I set the ride height to almost maximum to have smoother and sharper turn-in.
[b]Update 8/28:[/b] I have done some more tweaking and I have come up with [l=]this setup[/l], which got me 2:02.8 on Silverstone GP. It is worth emphasizing that despite having less horsepower than the Zonda R, the GT1 has comparable performance because suspension tuning gives it far more responsive handling.

When I drove the GT1 back in Porsche Unleashed, I was impressed by its speed and grip. Given that it was the best car in the game, winning it in the final evolution race was very satisfying. A part of what got me interested in Assetto Corsa was seeing this car in the game. I wanted to see what this car looks and feels like with more modern graphics and physics simulation. However, it has been a long time since Porsche Unleashed, and the GT1 is an old car by now. The GT1, as good as I once thought it was, has been greatly superseded by the 919 Hybrid.

Despite being an older, uglier car, the GT1 slightly outperforms the Pagani Zonda R. It is more tunable than the Zonda, and I was able to get a better lap time on Spa (2:20.6 versus 2:21.5). Even though the GT1 has less horsepower, it can corner faster. The Zonda is resistant to turning and cannot take the curved hill as well as the GT1. Being able to tune gear ratios on the GT1 allowed me to reach the same top speed on the long straight, helped by being able to take the hill at a higher speed. The GT1 has adjustable ride height, and it has a much lower height than the Zonda, so it is less prone to staying leaned on its side when you intend to go straight. Adjustable differential preload and packers on the GT1 allow it to take sharp turns quicker.

The main disadvantage of the GT1 is the lack of traction control. As a result, it is prone to breaking loose and spinning out if you accelerate too hard coming out of a sharp turn, making it more challenging to drive compared to the Zonda. Just be careful with the throttle, use 6 degrees of rear wing, and the car will be quite stable. I also use a spring rate of 146 N/mm to make the handling more rigid and consistent for its speed with minor impact on turn radius.

I have also updated the article with a wider range for the suggested spring rate in addition to small corrections and clarifications regarding dampers, springs, and anti-roll bars.

[b]Update:[/b] After fiddling some more with the Zonda, I managed to shave my Spa lap time to 2:20 by putting 1 point into anti-roll bars to help compensate for its long travel dampers, and using a damper rebound of 4 to help it turn more sharply on corners. Taking the curved hill at over 200 km/h requires some careful steering to clip the apex, but once done, it can slightly exceed the GT1's top speed on the straight. I have also taken out my suggestion to reduce the rebound for the Zonda in the article.
ChockrickBearJul 28, 2020 2:54am EDT
[t]Ferrari F2004 and article update[/t]
[b]Update 10/27:[/b] Got 1:31.7 with higher track temp, increased ride height, softer front bump, and softer front ARB. One thing to note about the medium slicks is that even though the front left tire overheats, it does not reduce turning enough to warrant moving up to hard slicks, which have less overall grip. It cools down in time for the most critical turns like the Copse.
[b]Update 8/27:[/b] Increased ride height, softened rear springs, stiffened rebound, and switched to medium slicks for smoother handling. I managed to shave my lap time down to 1:32.6 with this setup.
[b]Update 8/14:[/b] Increased front springs for faster handling on s-curves. New gear ratio setup to theoretically improve mid-speed acceleration. Prior to this setup, I had a hard time matching my own record. Now I managed to match it much more consistently with this.
[b]Update 8/13:[/b] Increased rake angle and lowered ride height to improve stability. Lowered front tire pressure due to increased heat causing pressure to exceed green levels.
[b]Update 8/12:[/b] I have updated my setup with more aggressive packers, stiffer front bump, softer front ARB, and slightly higher rear height, which help the car able to turn more and feel a bit tighter.
[b]Update 8/06:[/b] I have updated my setup with more camber, more responsive packers, and a slightly higher ride height. This setup has allowed me to take the Copse Corner at higher speeds.
[b]Update 8/03:[/b] [l=]My setup[/l] has been updated with a stiffer rear suspension for more responsive handling, increased relative fast bump settings for more stable rake, and reduced rear wing angle to eliminate unnecessary drag. I have also updated the fast bump and springs recommendations in the article.

I was never interested in open-wheel race cars because I thought they were ugly compared to street cars and prototypes. But learning how tuning works and understanding the basic physics of cars led me to look at a car as a mechanical system rather than as a shiny luxury toy. I came to understand that open-wheel race cars are what you would get if you designed a car for physics over aesthetics.

With the F2004, I was able to get 1:33.3 on Silverstone GP. It's not the best lap time out there, but I'm not the best driver either since I can't seem to judge braking and steering points perfectly. The Copse Corner is a particularly tricky turn to nail because it is possible to floor it through, but you have to curve in and clip the apex perfectly, and you will just barely stay on track. I was only able to get it a few times out of countless attempts, and I often have to ease off on the throttle to make it.

I particularly like the F2004 because of the sound it makes. The flaming sound when accelerating on the first four gears makes the car sound like a bowling ball, and it goes well with the rolling of the big black wheels in front. The high-pitched engine noise sounds like a toy car in the cockpit, but like an alien craft in replays with the Doppler effect.

What also makes the F2004 stand out from the other open-wheelers is traction control, which can be adjusted to have just the right amount of extra turning without risk of spinning out on corners. While the SF70H is a theoretically better car, it is much riskier to corner with due to a lack of TC, so I have a hard time getting a better lap time with it. It also does not have tunable gear ratios, and it wastes acceleration to have a top speed the car cannot achieve despite its hybrid boosting and drag reduction system, so it is not really that much faster than a tuned F2004. The F2004 can reach a higher top speed in drag racing.

The sheer grip of the F2004 allows it to handle more aggressive settings compared to other cars. The stress on the tires generate a lot of heat, so hard slicks are the most robust solution to maintain green temperatures and pressures. Stiffer damper bumps help it turn faster and setting the rear bump higher than the front helps it turn even more. A stiffer rebound is also useful to help it turn more smoothly and sharply. A higher TC setting allows the rear to rotate faster with hard acceleration while still being safe. If you are interested, you can [l=]download my setup here[/l].

I have also made some revisions to the article, fixing some dubious statements and adding my findings on the fast damper settings.
ChockrickBearAug 4, 2020 2:18am EDT
[t]Anti-roll bars update[/t]
I have done some testing with anti-roll bars and have realized their utility. Much of the instability caused by anti-roll bars are due to a stiff rear, while a stiff front makes the handling more stable. I have updated the article accordingly. I have also updated my F2004 setup with stiff front bars.
ChockrickBearAug 11, 2020 11:16pm EDT
[t]Porsche 919 Hybrid 2016[/t]
[b]Update 12/12:[/b] I managed to shave my Silverstone GP time down to 1:42.9 after fiddling around some more in an attempt to make the car turn sharper with less screeching. A higher ride height, softened bumps, softened fast bumps, softened rear springs with a stiffer ARB, softened front packers, stiffer rear heave bump, and some front toe out seems to do the job. I also noticed that the rear does not need nearly as much camber as the front.

While not as fast as the F2004, the 919 is still an impressive car and among the best of the closed-roof cars in the game. It has a modern aesthetic, an engine that sounds powerful without being harsh, and a high-pitched braking sound that conveys a sense of stopping power. I was able to get 1:44.1 on Silverstone GP.

Tunable gear ratios, low drag, and MGU boosting allows the 919 to reach top speeds that not even the SF70H can reach. It has so much rear end grip that you can set the rear wing to minimum and you still won't slide out from a high-speed turn. You can set aggressive suspension settings so that the car can turn quickly and sharply, although the packers need to be tuned so you don't spin out on slow, sharp turns. [l=]You can try out my setup here[/l].

There is also a 2015 version of the car. The main difference is that it has much less rear downforce and actually needs the rear wing. The gear ratios are also different with different shifting speeds and top speed. It also has an uglier dashboard that makes the car look older. Otherwise, it performs very similarly to the 2016 version with identical settings.
ChockrickBearAug 14, 2020 2:24am EDT
[t]Gear ratios update[/t]
I have been messing around with gear ratios, and I think I understand the point of the final gear ratio. As long as you keep the top speed of the car constant while adjusting all other gears to have consistent progression, increasing the final ratio has the effect of shifting the acceleration curve from the lower gears to the higher gears. While the lower gears will have slower acceleration, the middle gears will be faster. This is important because you will be spending the majority of your time on your mid gears as you brake and accelerate through turns.

The reason this works is because smaller gears have a harder time turning a bigger gear. Making the final gear smaller allows the higher gears to transfer more torque while the lower gears transfer less. I have updated the article to reflect this new insight.
ChockrickBearAug 17, 2020 2:40am EDT
[t]Porsche 911 RSR 2017 and article update[/t]
[b]Update 9/18:[/b] I have updated my setup to have higher ride height and stiffer fast bumps, which helps make turning a bit sharper and less screechy by having more travel. With this, I was able to shave my Silverstone GP lap down to 2:03.8 despite some slightly less than optimal turns. I have updated the fast damper description in the article for more clarity and raised the fast bump recommendations to reduce damper compression on bumps.

After gaining more practice and tuning insight with the F2004 and 919, I decided to revisit this car and apply some of my newfound experience to it. I was able to shave my Silverstone GP lap time down to 2:04.4. I also shaved down my Zonda R time down to 2:03.1. Again, being only a second slower despite much less horsepower and more weight, the 911 RSR is quite impressive and showcases the power of tuning. The handling of the Zonda R is so laggy and limiting that the car feels heavier even though it actually weighs less than the 911 RSR.

Aesthetically, I find GT cars to be ugly because they look like street cars with a hideous rear wing slapped on the back and decals haphazardly splattered all over. The 911 RSR has a high-tech look about it, but I find the cockpit to be messy with that vent tube sticking out, the rear view screen just planted there, the cheap plastic buttons and dials on the wheel, and the unimaginative layout of the wheel screen UI. The bright, colourful RPM meter is the only thing pleasing to look at. The sound is soft and entrancing, making the car feel more relaxed to drive.

While the 911 RSR is not fast, it is incredibly agile. It doesn't benefit much from aggressive springs and damper settings, but it can handle extreme packer settings. However, it will spin out if you steer too hard on cold tires, particularly at the Aintree Corner, so you need to be careful and take the shallowest path through. Beyond that, keeping the car at speed with just enough rear wing angle will keep it under control. [l=]You can download my setup here[/l].

I have also updated some of my article recommendations:
- Increased filter setting for smoother steering.
- Increased camber settings for more turning, recommending the front to have more than the rear.
- Updated descriptions for damper settings for more accuracy and increased rear bump recommendation for faster turning.
- Increased rear rebound for heave dampers for more stability after releasing the throttle.
- Updated spring descriptions for clarity and reduced minimum spring rate recommendation.
- Updated anti-roll bar descriptions for clarity and recommendations for smoother handling.
- Updated travel and packer recommendations for increased turning.
- Updated descriptions in differential, aero, and traction control for more clarity.
ChockrickBearAug 24, 2020 2:37am EDT
[t]Ferrari SF70H[/t]
[b]Update 11/26:[/b] I have played around some more in an attempt to make the car smoother and more consistent to drive. I realized that the damper travel is quite short for the cornering speed, resulting in very quick bottoming out. Not only does the car need a higher ride height, it also needs much stiffer dampers to smoothly distribute the limited travel through turns and avoid relying on the packers. The car is grippy enough that it can handle high front toe out, which really helps turning. I also noticed the rear does not need much camber as it does not seem to screech much compared to the front. I also switched to Super Soft tires, which do run a bit hot, but not enough to ruin the turns. A softer front anti-roll bar also helps smooth out turning, while stiff enough to get away with soft front springs without harming s-curve response. My setup has been updated.

You would think that the SF70H with its high-tech MGU boosting and drag reduction system would have absolutely insane performance over the comparatively low-tech F2004. However, the SF70H struggles to do better in practice and you have to worry about energy management and manually activating DRS on top. There are two key areas that hobble the SF70H's performance: No traction control, and inefficient, non-adjustable gear ratios. While the SF70H can turn sharper and corner at higher speeds than the F2004, the lack of TC makes it very risky to push the car on corner exit. If you play it safe, you will weaken your exit acceleration and negate the cornering advantage. Simply put, this car is much harder to drive for only a small, theoretical advantage that requires perfect muscle memory to exploit. After a nightmare of trial and error, I was able to get 1:33.4 on Silverstone GP despite some less than perfect turns.

Even if you force on traction control through the realism settings, the acceleration is so great it will overcome the TC anyways. Still, forcing on TC is useful for tuning this car in order to reduce confusion of whether you are oversteering due to aggressive settings or too much throttle out of a corner. Aggressive settings compound with the lack of TC to make the car easy to spin out, so careful tuning is important to make cornering less risky. Having softer rear packers is particularly important to keep the rear end from kicking out too easily from sharp turns when the car is most vulnerable, giving you more margin of error. Having enough ride height is useful to prevent hitting the packers too soon and stressing the rear end as you come out of a corner. A touch of toe-in for the rear helps keep it focused.

[l=]You can try out my setup here[/l]. Switch the MGU-K Delivery to Hotlap when you are going for a best lap.
ChockrickBearSep 9, 2020 1:12am EDT
[t]Ambient temperature and grip[/t]
I neglected to mention that for all of my lap times I posted here, I used an ambient temperature of 20 C with mid-clear weather at noon time. This is significant because the temperature of the track surface affects grip, and these settings result in below optimal track temperature. Initially, I did not know about the significance of ambient temperature, but then [l=]I read that 32 C is the standard track temperature[/l], so I raised the ambient temperature to 23 C, which gives 32 C track temperature for Silverstone GP. The temperatures also affect optimal tire pressure, with higher temperatures demanding lower cold pressures to stay green.

Taking this into account, I managed to shave my Zonda R Silverstone GP time to 2:01.2, although a part of the improvement came from improvements in my corner knowledge.
ChockrickBearOct 31, 2020 1:02am EDT
[t]Lamborghini Aventador SV and wheel alignment update[/t]
The Aventador is a pretty sleek car with its edges and angles inspired by stealth fighters. However, it has just enough curves to avoid looking blocky like its predecessor, the Reventon. It has a fancy, graphical dashboard that is much easier to read than the classic mechanical dials of most street cars. The big gear number turns red when you are in the optimal RPM range, and a blue bar appears on top when you need to shift up. However, the dashboard colour does not change with a different body colour, so a yellow body is pretty much necessary to have matching colours. Personally, I would prefer a light blue dashboard with a black body.

When it comes to handling, this car does not like to be pushed to its limits, and it is very finicky when cornering at speed. Street cars tend to have engines that are too powerful for their brakes, suspension, and downforce, and the Aventador is no exception. It would rather oversteer and spin than run wide since it does not have enough rear downforce, even with the rear wing at maximum. The car has a tendency of turning too much if you take a corner a bit too fast due to its soft, high-travel suspension, which leads to fighting with the suspension as you come out of the corner. Being a street car, you cannot tune the suspension, so wheel alignment is the best you can do. As I mentioned in the article, the Aventador toes out its front wheels under acceleration, so it needs a high resting toe-in to compensate. The rear does not appear to exhibit the same behaviour, but it still needs a lot of toe-in to keep it from drifting too easily.

[l= Corsa Car Setup Guide/ChockrickBear_AventadorSV.ini]You can try out my setup here[/l]. I managed to get 2:16.1 on Silverstone GP, although I drifted and ran wide on the Club Corner. Playing with this car has given me a bit more insight on alignment settings, so I have updated the article accordingly.
ChockrickBearNov 2, 2020 3:08pm EST
[t]Corrections to controller settings[/t]
I have done some testing and discovered that the reason why the virtual steering wheel rotation limit is placed in the graphics settings is because it is purely visual and has no effect on the handling of the cars. All cars have a fixed range of steering independent of how much the steering wheel turns. Even with the setting at 5 degrees, you can still turn the maximum amount the car allows even though the in-game steering wheel barely moves.

The reason why you might want to adjust this is because if you are using sensitive analog stick settings, it will make your character's hands move ridiculously fast to cover the full range of steering, especially with street cars because the wheel can rotate up to 450 degrees compared to 180 for race cars. Reducing the rotation limit slows your hands down, but it makes the steering wheel turn less than it would in real life for a sharp turn. If you don't care about having cyborg hands, you can set the limit to "Off". But because this setting has nothing to do with tuning, I have taken out the section from the article completely.

I have also added new suggestions for the other controller settings.
ChockrickBearNov 7, 2020 2:52am EST
[t]Porsche 918 Spyder[/t]
When you cram a racing engine into a street chassis, you get a car that floats like a boat when pushed to its limits. Compared to the Aventador, the Spyder is more stable, but it cannot corner much faster and still feels dangerously floaty at speed. The brakes are weak for the car's acceleration and top speed, but the car becomes very loose when braking as if it does not have enough front bias. You can only safely brake in a straight line, and you need to give the suspension enough time to recover before turning, so this car is not forgiving of mistakes. The car will understeer at speed, so you need to clip apexes precisely to make it through fast corners. However, the soft and tall suspension makes it unsuited for s-curves, so you have to slow down early, line up a shallow entry angle, and coast through.

Being a street car, tuning options are limited. Even with a good setup, you still need to be very conservative to keep the car under control. Wheel alignment can only do so much to maximize the window of stability before the car's weak downforce and awkward balance is unable to keep the car glued to the road. You really have to know the braking points and cornering speeds to stay on track without skidding.

Aesthetically, the car is curvy and just a bit too bulgy for my taste. However, it does have a nice rear with a busy, high-tech look. The sound of the car is very electronic, especially from the outside. Rather than screaming past you, it whirs with sophistication. The cockpit is both sporty and classy with the mix of carbon fiber, plastic, and chrome surfaces, accented with the green stripe that matches the electronic green meters of the dashboard. However, the visible bolts on the ceiling clash with the seamless, futuristic design of the cockpit.

The dashboard uses a combination of circular electronic screens and dials, which I find less practical than the Aventador's large screen. The tachometer needle is harder to see than a big, bright electronic meter, and there is no up-shift indicator to make it easier to tell the exact moment to shift. It is also odd that there are two speedometers, the digital readout in the middle of the tachometer, and an imprecise radial meter on the left. It is as if the Porsche designers wanted dashboard symmetry, but did not know what to do with the third screen. The right screen shows an awful lot of information like engine temperature, current time, and outdoor temperature in tiny text. Maybe move some of that information over to the left screen and have MGU settings displayed on the right?

Overall, it is a fancy, but demanding car. I was able to get 2:09 on Silverstone GP, and [l=]you can check out my setup here[/l].
ChockrickBearNov 13, 2020 3:01am EST
[t]Porsche 911 Carrera RSR 3.0[/t]
When I was a naive kid who first played Porsche Unleashed, I played with the keyboard and had no concept of braking because I did not understand why you would ever want to slow down in a race. The Classic Era races could be won without braking because the cars were slow and easy to handle. Once I got to the Golden Era, I hit a wall in progress when it came to the Carrera RS because horsepower began to exceed grip. The car had a loose tail compared to everything that came before, and it frustrated the hell out of me. Only by learning to brake and using a gamepad with analog sticks did I manage to control the car and finally win with it.

Today in Assetto Corsa, the Carrera RSR caught my interest as it is an upgraded Carrera RS for racing. Properly tuned, the car has pretty stable handling, and it can take corners at the same speed as modern hypercars. It handles tighter than the Aventador, and it only becomes loose when you accelerate too hard out of sharp turns due to the lack of traction control. It also doesn't have ABS either, so you need some braking technique to minimize stopping distances. The car needs a very high resting rake angle because the rear end really sinks down under acceleration. Setting the front height to minimum does not appear to create any problems with suspension travel. The wheels do not need much camber as the tires do not screech much unless you slide.

As a vintage car, the style is ahead of its time. I particularly like the "Carrera" decal running across the side as it really brings back memories of my Porsche Unleashed days, although the yellow body with blue decal that the game had is not available as an option in Assetto Corsa. The interior has been stripped down for weight reduction, and the steering wheel just looks ugly, but it still retains the original dashboard. However, the dashboard is awful because the speedometer is obstructed by the steering wheel, making it impossible to see how fast you are going without the game's HUD. Then again, you cannot expect much out of a low-tech car. I wonder if it is possible to have a dual-dial gauge like an analog clock that crams both a speedometer and tachometer in one?

Anyways, I managed to get 2:26.4 on Silverstone GP. [l=]You can check out my setup here.[/l]
ChockrickBearNov 16, 2020 9:57pm EST
[t]Updates to toe, dampers, springs, and aero descriptions[/t]
I have rewritten some paragraphs to be more clear on the practical effects of the settings, and revised my recommendations for damper settings for faster turning.
ChockrickBearNov 28, 2020 1:58pm EST
[t]Updated recommendations for controller settings[/t]
The thing about filter settings is that the higher you go, the more sensitive each 0.01 increment gets. I initially chose 0.82 because it felt more responsive, but after getting used to it, it still felt a bit jerky and uncomfortable on my aging Logitech F510 gamepad. 0.83 makes a significant difference, but it also has to be compensated with an increase to steering sensitivity to 35%. When you spend enough time gaming, even the slightest difference in input sensitivity settings is significant in making games feel better to play. For the sake of being honest with what settings I use, I have updated my recommended settings.
ChockrickBearDec 25, 2020 3:17am EST
[t]Lamborghini Huracan GT3 and article update[/t]
Ever since driving the atrociously loose Aventador, I wanted to try tuning a Lamborghini. The Huracan GT3 offers plenty of options and it handles tighter than the Huracan ST. Unfortunately, where it improves in performance, it sacrifices in aesthetics, especially the dashboard, which has been replaced with a plain, technical user interface.

The suspension feels a bit different than the Porsches, and I find a higher damper bump is needed for more responsive turning while a higher fast rebound is needed for smoother bump handling. The car is a bit heavy at the rear, so slightly lowering the rear rebound relative to the front helps balance out the handling.

Using soft slicks causes the tires to run a bit hot. Any handling aggression will overheat the rear end and make the car spin, so taking advantage of soft slicks requires you to drive smoothly and corner perfectly. While the car can handle a stiff rear suspension, too much stiffness adds enough heat to the rear tires to push it over the limit, so some balancing is needed. Going up to medium slicks is not an ideal solution as they offer less overall grip, but you can switch to them if you need more reliable tires that can take some abuse if you cannot drive perfectly.

I was able to get 2:05.5 on Silverstone GP, and [l=]you can try out my setup here[/l].

I have also updated descriptions in the article regarding tire compound and suspension.