ChockrickBear Gaming

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Assetto Corsa Car Setup Guide

ChockrickBearApr 18, 2020 2:55pm EDT
[t]Playing with the Pagani Zonda R[/t]
[b]Update 9/04:[/b] After some more tweaking and practice, I managed to get 2:02 on Silverstone GP, and [l=]you can try out my setup here[/l]. While the Zonda R is not as responsive as other cars due to its high, non-adjustable ride height and travel, it can still turn quite well as long as you develop the muscle memory to smoothly commit to turns, nail the apexes, and steer out before the car develops the tendency to keep turning due to the laggy suspension. You need a bit of finesse to keep the car balanced, but once you do, it performs quite well. Also, disregard the outdated advice I made here because trying to mitigate the long suspension recovery will worsen the car's turning.

What I really like about this car is the sound. It is like multiple systems powering up as you step on the gas with the combination of the low rumble, the increasing whistle, and the loud scream. The cockpit is also quite stylish, looking simultaneously futuristic and retro.

After some fiddling around, I was able to shave my Silverstone GP lap time to 2:05. As I mentioned in the article, the car is not as tunable as others. The ride height and travel cannot be adjusted, and they are somewhat tall, so if you push this car too hard, the dampers take longer than necessary to recover, causing the car to want to keep turning. Stiffening the damper bump, softening the rebound, and stiffening the springs relative to my recommended settings can help with recovery. However, the differential cannot be adjusted for looser turning, so the car feels slow and tight to turn in, only made worse with stiffer suspension settings. The springs do not need to be stiffer than 146 N/mm for fast direction changes, which is the second lowest setting for the front.
ChockrickBearMay 31, 2020 12:31pm EDT
[t]Porsche 911 GT1-98[/t]
[b]Update 8/31:[/b] I was able to shave my Silverstone GP time to 2:02.3 by stiffening the front spring and softening the front anti-roll bar, which gave tighter handling without much of an impact on turn radius. My setup has been updated to reflect this. One thing to note about the GT1 is that it has short damper travel by default, which is why I set the ride height to almost maximum to have smoother and sharper turn-in.
[b]Update 8/28:[/b] I have done some more tweaking and I have come up with [l=]this setup[/l], which got me 2:02.8 on Silverstone GP. It is worth emphasizing that despite having less horsepower than the Zonda R, the GT1 has comparable performance because suspension tuning gives it far more responsive handling.

When I drove the GT1 back in Porsche Unleashed, I was impressed by its speed and grip. Given that it was the best car in the game, winning it in the final evolution race was very satisfying. A part of what got me interested in Assetto Corsa was seeing this car in the game. I wanted to see what this car looks and feels like with more modern graphics and physics simulation. However, it has been a long time since Porsche Unleashed, and the GT1 is an old car by now. The GT1, as good as I once thought it was, has been greatly superseded by the 919 Hybrid.

Despite being an older, uglier car, the GT1 slightly outperforms the Pagani Zonda R. It is more tunable than the Zonda, and I was able to get a better lap time on Spa (2:20.6 versus 2:21.5). Even though the GT1 has less horsepower, it can corner faster. The Zonda is resistant to turning and cannot take the curved hill as well as the GT1. Being able to tune gear ratios on the GT1 allowed me to reach the same top speed on the long straight, helped by being able to take the hill at a higher speed. The GT1 has adjustable ride height, and it has a much lower height than the Zonda, so it is less prone to staying leaned on its side when you intend to go straight. Adjustable differential preload and packers on the GT1 allow it to take sharp turns quicker.

The main disadvantage of the GT1 is the lack of traction control. As a result, it is prone to breaking loose and spinning out if you accelerate too hard coming out of a sharp turn, making it more challenging to drive compared to the Zonda. Just be careful with the throttle, use 6 degrees of rear wing, and the car will be quite stable. I also use a spring rate of 146 N/mm to make the handling more rigid and consistent for its speed with minor impact on turn radius.

I have also updated the article with a wider range for the suggested spring rate in addition to small corrections and clarifications regarding dampers, springs, and anti-roll bars.

[b]Update:[/b] After fiddling some more with the Zonda, I managed to shave my Spa lap time to 2:20 by putting 1 point into anti-roll bars to help compensate for its long travel dampers, and using a damper rebound of 4 to help it turn more sharply on corners. Taking the curved hill at over 200 km/h requires some careful steering to clip the apex, but once done, it can slightly exceed the GT1's top speed on the straight. I have also taken out my suggestion to reduce the rebound for the Zonda in the article.
ChockrickBearJul 28, 2020 2:54am EDT
[t]Ferrari F2004 and article update[/t]
[b]Update 8/27:[/b] Increase ride height, softened rear springs, stiffened rebound, and switched to medium slicks for smoother handling. I managed to shave my lap time down to 1:32.6 with this setup.
[b]Update 8/14:[/b] Increased front springs for faster handling on s-curves. New gear ratio setup to theoretically improve mid-speed acceleration. Prior to this setup, I had a hard time matching my own record. Now I managed to match it much more consistently with this.
[b]Update 8/13:[/b] Increased rake angle and lowered ride height to improve stability. Lowered front tire pressure due to increased heat causing pressure to exceed green levels.
[b]Update 8/12:[/b] I have updated my setup with more aggressive packers, stiffer front bump, softer front ARB, and slightly higher rear height, which help the car able to turn more and feel a bit tighter.
[b]Update 8/06:[/b] I have updated my setup with more camber, more responsive packers, and a slightly higher ride height. This setup has allowed me to take the Copse Corner at higher speeds.
[b]Update 8/03:[/b] [l=]My setup[/l] has been updated with a stiffer rear suspension for more responsive handling, increased relative fast bump settings for more stable rake, and reduced rear wing angle to eliminate unnecessary drag. I have also updated the fast bump and springs recommendations in the article.

I was never interested in open-wheel race cars because I thought they were ugly compared to street cars and prototypes. But learning how tuning works and understanding the basic physics of cars led me to look at a car as a mechanical system rather than as a shiny luxury toy. I came to understand that open-wheel race cars are what you would get if you designed a car for physics over aesthetics.

With the F2004, I was able to get 1:33.3 on Silverstone GP. It's not the best lap time out there, but I'm not the best driver either since I can't seem to judge braking and steering points perfectly. The Copse Corner is a particularly tricky turn to nail because it is possible to floor it through, but you have to curve in and clip the apex perfectly, and you will just barely stay on track. I was only able to get it a few times out of countless attempts, and I often have to ease off on the throttle to make it.

I particularly like the F2004 because of the sound it makes. The flaming sound when accelerating on the first four gears makes the car sound like a bowling ball, and it goes well with the rolling of the big black wheels in front. The high-pitched engine noise sounds like a toy car in the cockpit, but like an alien craft in replays with the Doppler effect.

What also makes the F2004 stand out from the other open-wheelers is traction control, which can be adjusted to have just the right amount of extra turning without risk of spinning out on corners. While the SF70H is a theoretically better car, it is much riskier to corner with due to a lack of TC, so I have a hard time getting a better lap time with it. It also does not have tunable gear ratios, and it wastes acceleration to have a top speed the car cannot achieve despite its hybrid boosting and drag reduction system, so it is not really that much faster than a tuned F2004. The F2004 can reach a higher top speed in drag racing.

The sheer grip of the F2004 allows it to handle more aggressive settings compared to other cars. The stress on the tires generate a lot of heat, so hard slicks are the most robust solution to maintain green temperatures and pressures. Stiffer damper bumps help it turn faster and setting the rear bump higher than the front helps it turn even more. A stiffer rebound is also useful to help it turn more smoothly and sharply. A higher TC setting allows the rear to rotate faster with hard acceleration while still being safe. If you are interested, you can [l=]download my setup here[/l].

I have also made some revisions to the article, fixing some dubious statements and adding my findings on the fast damper settings.
ChockrickBearAug 4, 2020 2:18am EDT
[t]Anti-roll bars update[/t]
I have done some testing with anti-roll bars and have realized their utility. Much of the instability caused by anti-roll bars are due to a stiff rear, while a stiff front makes the handling more stable. I have updated the article accordingly. I have also updated my F2004 setup with stiff front bars.
ChockrickBearAug 11, 2020 11:16pm EDT
[t]Porsche 919 Hybrid 2016[/t]
While not as fast as the F2004, the 919 is still an impressive car and among the best of the closed-roof cars in the game. It has a modern aesthetic, an engine that sounds powerful without being harsh, and a high-pitched braking sound that conveys a sense of stopping power. I was able to get 1:44.1 on Silverstone GP.

Tunable gear ratios, low drag, and MGU boosting allows the 919 to reach top speeds that not even the SF70H can reach. It has so much rear end grip that you can set the rear wing to minimum and you still won't slide out from a high-speed turn. You can set aggressive suspension settings so that the car can turn quickly and sharply, although the packers need to be tuned so you don't spin out on slow, sharp turns. [l=]You can try out my setup here[/l].

There is also a 2015 version of the car. The main difference is that it has much less rear downforce and actually needs the rear wing. The gear ratios are also different with different shifting speeds and top speed. It also has an uglier dashboard that makes the car look older. Otherwise, it performs very similarly to the 2016 version with identical settings.
ChockrickBearAug 14, 2020 2:24am EDT
[t]Gear ratios update[/t]
I have been messing around with gear ratios, and I think I understand the point of the final gear ratio. As long as you keep the top speed of the car constant while adjusting all other gears to have consistent progression, increasing the final ratio has the effect of shifting the acceleration curve from the lower gears to the higher gears. While the lower gears will have slower acceleration, the middle gears will be faster. This is important because you will be spending the majority of your time on your mid gears as you brake and accelerate through turns.

The reason this works is because smaller gears have a harder time turning a bigger gear. Making the final gear smaller allows the higher gears to transfer more torque while the lower gears transfer less. I have updated the article to reflect this new insight.
ChockrickBearAug 17, 2020 2:40am EDT
[t]Porsche 911 RSR 2017 and article update[/t]
[b]Update 9/18:[/b] I have updated my setup to have higher ride height and stiffer fast bumps, which helps make turning a bit sharper and less screechy by having more travel. With this, I was able to shave my Silverstone GP lap down to 2:03.8 despite some slightly less than optimal turns. I have updated the fast damper description in the article for more clarity and raised the fast bump recommendations to reduce damper compression on bumps.

After gaining more practice and tuning insight with the F2004 and 919, I decided to revisit this car and apply some of my newfound experience to it. I was able to shave my Silverstone GP lap time down to 2:04.4. I also shaved down my Zonda R time down to 2:03.1. Again, being only a second slower despite much less horsepower and more weight, the 911 RSR is quite impressive and showcases the power of tuning. The handling of the Zonda R is so laggy and limiting that the car feels heavier even though it actually weighs less than the 911 RSR.

Aesthetically, I find GT cars to be ugly because they look like street cars with a hideous rear wing slapped on the back and decals haphazardly splattered all over. The 911 RSR has a high-tech look about it, but I find the cockpit to be messy with that vent tube sticking out, the rear view screen just planted there, the cheap plastic buttons and dials on the wheel, and the unimaginative layout of the wheel screen UI. The bright, colourful RPM meter is the only thing pleasing to look at. The sound is soft and entrancing, making the car feel more relaxed to drive.

While the 911 RSR is not fast, it is incredibly agile. It doesn't benefit much from aggressive springs and damper settings, but it can handle extreme packer settings. However, it will spin out if you steer too hard on cold tires, particularly at the Aintree Corner, so you need to be careful and take the shallowest path through. Beyond that, keeping the car at speed with just enough rear wing angle will keep it under control. [l=]You can download my setup here[/l].

I have also updated some of my article recommendations:
- Increased filter setting for smoother steering.
- Increased camber settings for more turning, recommending the front to have more than the rear.
- Updated descriptions for damper settings for more accuracy and increased rear bump recommendation for faster turning.
- Increased rear rebound for heave dampers for more stability after releasing the throttle.
- Updated spring descriptions for clarity and reduced minimum spring rate recommendation.
- Updated anti-roll bar descriptions for clarity and recommendations for smoother handling.
- Updated travel and packer recommendations for increased turning.
- Updated descriptions in differential, aero, and traction control for more clarity.
ChockrickBearAug 24, 2020 2:37am EDT
[t]Ferrari SF70H[/t]
You would think that the SF70H with its high-tech MGU boosting and drag reduction system would have absolutely insane performance over the comparatively low-tech F2004. However, the SF70H struggles to do better in practice and you have to worry about energy management and manually activating DRS on top. There are two key areas that hobble the SF70H's performance: No traction control, and inefficient, non-adjustable gear ratios. While the SF70H can turn sharper and corner at higher speeds than the F2004, the lack of TC makes it very risky to push the car on corner exit. If you play it safe, you will weaken your exit acceleration and negate the cornering advantage. Simply put, this car is much harder to drive for only a small, theoretical advantage that requires perfect muscle memory to exploit. After a nightmare of trial and error, I was able to get 1:33.4 on Silverstone GP despite some less than perfect turns.

Even if you force on traction control through the realism settings, the acceleration is so great it will overcome the TC anyways. Still, forcing on TC is useful for tuning this car in order to reduce confusion of whether you are oversteering due to aggressive settings or too much throttle out of a corner. Aggressive settings compound with the lack of TC to make the car easy to spin out, so careful tuning is important to make cornering less risky. Having softer rear packers is particularly important to keep the rear end from kicking out too easily from sharp turns when the car is most vulnerable, giving you more margin of error. Having enough ride height is useful to prevent hitting the packers too soon and stressing the rear end as you come out of a corner. A touch of toe-in for the rear helps keep it focused.

[l=]You can try out my setup here[/l]. Switch the MGU-K Delivery to Hotlap when you are going for a best lap.
ChockrickBearSep 9, 2020 1:12am EDT
[t]Ambient temperature and grip[/t]
I neglected to mention that for all of my lap times I posted here, I used an ambient temperature of 20 C with mid-clear weather at noon time. This is significant because the temperature of the track surface affects grip, and these settings result in below optimal track temperature. Initially, I did not know about the significance of ambient temperature, but then [l=]I read that 32 C is the standard track temperature[/l], so I raised the ambient temperature to 23 C, which gives 32 C track temperature for Silverstone GP. The temperatures also affect optimal tire pressure, with higher temperatures demanding lower cold pressures to stay green.

Taking this into account, I managed to shave my Zonda R Silverstone GP time to 2:01.2, although a part of the improvement came from improvements in my corner knowledge.